The sword/claymore about 1600 mm long and all the skins are cut in such a way that they can be printed by an Ender 3 (20x20x30)

It has 14.30mm and 10,30 holes to be able to place 14 mm wood or aluminum rods and 10mm aluminium rods as a skeleton.

I recommend aluminum. With aluminum rods it is more resistant, but the final decision is up to you.

I usually print my parts with the following definitions ( Because I'm a cosplayer and I prefer to give extra resistance so that the prop resists well to the amount of convention people. You can change the settings if you want. ) :

Quality: 2.8

Walls: 3

Infill: 10% or 15%

Pattern: Zig Zag

- From my own experience, I give a margin of 0.35 mm for the rods (wood or aluminum.), so that the rod can be placed and glued without the risk of them getting stuck inside the piece.

- I provide the full sword/claymore not sliced and without holes, in case you want to slice in another way.

- Unfortunately, due to the sword's/claymore's design, there are parts that will need some small support in the blade.

- I recently discovered a new feature in the program I use, so all parts were exported in high definition.

IMPORTANT:

- Due to the size, the sword/claymore is capable of getting a little heavy. One way I've heard of soloing this is to print with 0% infill. Then make a hole at the top of each piece (that doesn't show and fill the inside with expanding foam for walls.)

I've never tried this technique, but I believe it works.

If you liked the model, please click on like and rate. It is very important for me to know that they like my models. If you have any suggestion or doubt, do not hesitate to ask. :)

You can whenever you need to send me a message here (Cult3D) or on my Instagram. @Titi_Cosplay

Luck on the Printing and happy cosplay! :D

Buster Sword - Final Fantasy