Moving Beak Mask by Perihelion Prints

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This beak mask can open and close, with the help of two elastic bands and a bit of hardware.

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Scaled to fit medium to large adult heads.

If your head is a bit on the smaller side, try scaling it down by 10-15% in the vertical/Z direction and trying a test print. The most important parts are how it fits around your nose, how much space it leaves on the sides of your face, and how it fits around your chin. It should be fairly comfortable, without pinching your nose or the sides of your face, and you should be able to open it fairly wide by moving your jaw. Although it takes a bit to make it move, it won't open and close through normal regular-volume speech.

For attachment to head, use elastic cord or ribbon. Hot glue should work. For fitting, place the mask on your face, lining it up with your nose. Measure how much ribbon you'll need to go around your head, then add a bit more and cut two equal halves. Glue one to each side of the mask, and use the leftover length to tie both pieces into a knot or bow behind or head. Or you can edit the file to come up with your own solution.

When the jaw is open, your mouth will be visible. If this isn't what you want, you could try wearing a neck gaiter over your mouth and nose, or adding some opaque fabric to the interior of the mask, giving it enough slack so it doesn't tear when the jaw opens. You may also experiment with wearing a disposable face mask underneath, but it seems like anything that covers your chin affects your ability to open and close the mask. Ultimately some experimentation may be necessary to come to an ideal solution.

Sculpted in Blender. STL included. Dimensions in millimetres.

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"Korean style female" used in demo render (https://skfb.ly/pu8so) by sxnneh is licensed under Creative Commons Attribution (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/).

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0.20mm layer height recommended.

Organic supports recommended.

PLA/PETG recommended.

Prints in two parts, upper and lower. To minimize supports and filament usage, refer to the preview pictures for suggested part orientations.

Filament Usage (estimated): 84g (36g for upper, 48g for lower)

Printing Time (estimated): 5h30m (2h30m for upper, 3h for lower)

^ Estimates based off slicing for Prusa MK3.9. Your mileage may vary.

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For assembly, you'll need two small (or medium-sized) thin elastic bands, as well as some kind of 3mm bolts or screws.

Recommended to use two M3x6mm screws. Please note that the upper part should go on top of the lower part, with its screw hole protrusions sticking out as shown.

The elastics will go between the two sets of pegs on the inside of the printed pieces. If you have a shorter elastic, as long as you can still open the jaw, you can just keep it between the pegs. Otherwise you may be able to use the screw head as a third peg, as shown in the pictures.

It's possible after extended use that you'll wear out the holes and the screws will fall out. In that case you can experiment with slightly longer screws and some M3 nuts to keep them in place. You could also use any kind of 3mm spacer, or print a small 3mm cylinder to fit in the holes.

If you have any assembly or post-processing questions prior to or after your purchase, or if you have any suggestions for improving the design, feel free to reach out.