This is a top mount relocation bracket for the Ender 3 V3 CoreXZ (NOT the V3 plus - I am working on designing one for that as well).

UPDATE - I have the design for the V3Plus completed and on my page.

This is similar to some other designs I found online. Wanted to feed directly from my dryer. The one that I borrowed some of the design cues from was: https://www.crealitycloud.com/model-detail/66a8f8fcb9b7260f9776860a?source=19&objId=creality-ender-3-v3-plus-mods (Author - Alexei Kopendakov). I wanted something similar to his design (which was great btw!), but was a bit sturdier and didn't necessarily need to use mounting screws (though my model will allow you to use them if you want). I wanted it to sit flush as well. I noticed some of the other top mounts were not flush at the front which caused some instability. I couldn't figure out why until I actually measured the top of the Ender 3 V3 with a right angle. The top surface is NOT flat! It actually slopes downward from back to front, hence causing a gap at the front. So - I designed mine with an angled surface to compensatE. I also wanted to use a wrap around / clip on design that would firmly lock it in place and did not obscure the "Creality" label at the top. It also has a small channel at the rear to grip the rear frame edge securely.

Print settings: I printed this with Hyper PLA at 220 deg nozzle, 65 deg bed. Infill was 20% Gyroid, 0.2 layer height, 3 wall loops, tree supports, 4 top shell, 3 bottom shell, brim. Print was a little over 2 hours.

This is a one piece design. As far as slicing orientation - it can be done several ways. I did it 2 ways - one was with its front mounting surface facing down on the plate (like a "T"), which was faster, however the it wasn't as clean with regard to the rear edge channel (the part that clips onto the top rear edge of the frame). The other way was to place it on its side (again, like a "T", but with the long part of the T facing sideways). This seems like a lot of supports required, however it makes the channel and front clip surfaces much cleaner. See pic for slice orientation.

To install this, start from the rear - place the bracket over the top rear edge so the thin channel "seats" in, then just pull the bracket towards the front - the front left and right "clips" will flex and once it pulls down, it will "snap" into place, holding firm. I did put holes in the rear of the bracket as well to line up with the rear M3 holes at the top rear of the frame. I used M3 x 12 screws (may want to add a few washers in case the 12mm screws bottom out. The holes in the upright mounting surface match the holes in the filament runout sensor. To mount the cable, I used Alexeis "cabel_guide" stl from the link I referenced above.

Hope this works for those who want/need it! It should be VERY sturdy once mounted. To reiterate, this will NOT work for the V3 Plus - I should have that one designed and tested in the next week or so.

Forgot to mention - you will have to extend the runout sensor cable. You will need some JST-XH 2S extensions which can be found online. Other option is to cut and solder in additional 22 AWG wire to extend it. I am also designing a cable tray to hide the wires. Should have that done in a few days.

Ender-3 V3 CoreXZ Top Mount Filament Runout Sensor Bracket

0.2mm layer, 3 walls, 20% infill, tree support, brim, 220/65

0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill