"Print-in-Place Articulated Dragon" by "Mesh Mayhem"

Slicer : Creality Print v5.1.6.10470 (win)

Printer : Ender-3 V3 Plus (Firmware v1.2.3.21)

Filament

1 : Hyper PLA (Flow ratio : 0.96%, Nozzel (First layer : 220°C, Other layers : 220°C), Bed (First layer : 65°C, Other layers : 65°C), Max volumetric speed : 23 mm³/s )

Process | Global

0.20mm Standard @Ender-3 V3 Plus,2Wall,10%Infill,No-Brim

- Quality

- Layer Height

- Layer height : 0.2 mm

- Fist layer height : 0.2 mm

- Strength

- Wall

- Wall loops : 2

- Infill

- Sparse infill density : 10 %

- Support

- Enable support : false ( = unchecked )

- Other

- Bed adhesion

- Brim type : No-Brim

All file(s) at 100% scale.

Plate 1

Mesh/File : meshmayhem_articulated_dragon_006.stl

Filament used : Hyper PLA Gold Creality

This print requires having a perfectly cleaned and degreased print bed (I use 99.9% IPA) and having previously done and checked an auto-leveling, as well as having a perfectly adjusted "Z-Offset"/"Z-axis compensation", to have a quality initial layer (sufficiently crushed on the bed) and which adheres correctly to the bed.

Otherwise, change the slicing settings to enforce a full brim

(

- Other

- Bed adhesion

- Brim type : Outer and Inner Brim

- Brim width : 5 mm

- Brim-object gap : 0.1 mm

)

As post-printing, you will need to :

- Eventually, give it a quick blast with a lighter flame or a heat gun if, like me, you have angel hair. (Often a sign that the filament is being printed too hot or that the spool has become damp and needs to be dried)

Unfortunately the last joints of the tail do not move and as they are very thin I preferred not to work/force them to avoid breaking them.

The other joints work well.

I would say that you should not let a child play with it because he risks breaking it, unless he is very delicate.

Thanks to "Mesh Mayhem" for this model.

Happy printing.

Print-in-Place Articulated Dragon

0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill

0.2mm layer, 3 walls, 15% infill

0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill