Source link : https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3024248 UPDATE 30.03.2019 I uploaded Version2 with some improvements and in 2 different weights. (see picture) I did not delete V1. UPDATE 05.08.2018 (for information scroll all the way down.) There are 4 different Heads and 2 different Mid parts. Look on the first picture and you will figure it out ;) I also designed Line Thru Head versions. You find them under remix. If you want a swimbait without lip, use the head from my glide bait. it works! https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3024271 For assembly instructions scroll down. Print settings: 100% infill !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 2 outer walls 0.1 - 0.2mm layer height no support (only for Fin) no top and bottom layers (only important for S3D users) Print orientation like on pic 2!!! I allways drop one pellet of silica gel with tweezers into every air chamber while printing. So i have a rattle sound and i notice when there is water inside. (then there is no rattle sound anymore) But with my printer and settings it is waterproof without epoxy. If you want to support me, check out my other lures i sell: https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/gadget/crankbait-fishing-lure-domi1988 https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/gadget/fat-crankbait-easy-to-print-and-build-one-piece-print https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/gadget/4-piece-swimbait-fishing-lure-14cm-easy-print-and-build Post-Printing Assembly instructions: You need: 4 - 5x eyed screw m2 (see pics) Glue (i use 2 component epoxy glue, i don´t think super glue is good) 1.0 - 1.2mm stainless wire (strong spring steel wire. 1.2mm is a tight fit and better) 0.4 - 0.6mm wire (doesn´t need to be strong) There is also the option to use fishing line instead of wire (as shown below) Before you glue the parts, assemble it without glue! So the holes are bigger and you can see how everything fits! The best way to glue the screws is to dip them in glue and screw them in.
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