This model is courtesy of fredmoff. The best constructed variant I have encountered, so I had to share it here. Authors pages can be found immediately below. All content contained is that of the original author, only formatting or minor omissions/additions for clarity and things I picked up during my build (additions will be prepended by a +, Italicised & font reduced) have changed and clearly noted.

https://www.***********.com/fredmoff/designs

https://www.**********.com/@fredmo_3314199/

This is my 10 inch server rack design. There are a lot of configuration options (1U, 2U, 3U, 4U, 5,6,7... height).

+ Don't be put off by this, once you get started you'll find your way. I didn't want to rename the Authors original files to make selection easier, but I will attach a supplementary document that assists with the whole process.

I would suggest printing one corner, one triangle insert, and one set of locking pins first for testing.

+ Eg. corner_foot_L, locking_clip_A, locking_clip_B+ topbottom_horizontal (many printers will require this to be rotated).

I've printed most of the rack without supports. Just make sure the triangle flats are down when printing.

+ Horizontal should be printed in the same orientation it will be used, not laying on its side. This avoids the use of supports and also gives a more rigid result.

+ Orientation of many pieces will need to be changed from their default, and it is best to avoid supports unless you have reason to require them and you're advanced enough to control where when and how they're created.

The triangle inserts won't be seen so use up those mostly gone spools.

The clearances are tight (0.2-0.25mm) and might need a little force. I print at 0.3mm layer height and 0.6 line width in PETG.

+ Unless your printer is dimensionally correct to well within the above tolerances, be prepared for a little manual labour, or print the appropriate parts (eg. don't increase the size of the locks or inserts) larger by the amount your printer is out. (some parts contain sockets and inserts, no matter what you do, there will be manual tooling required if your printer isn't correct)

I found that despite using PETG, I still suffered shrinkage of the socketed inlays and had to open them up by hand. If you don't have a method for doing things like this, I strongly suggest purchasing a temp controlled soldering iron, along with some sculpting tips (you can find these packages online, as well as plenty of helpful information, if you search for; 3D print soldering iron or 3D print finishing)

Corner connections have lefts and rights. Side and front/back horizontal sections just flip upside-down.

[Modified from OP]

There is the expansion pack with extra connectors to extend to a 19" variety. Visit the Authors' Thingiverse to download.

There is also a pack with some rack panels, cable mgmt etc. I plan to upload this as well, and place a link here.

Cord mgmt doesn't work with the fan side panels. Cord mgmt flength does. (standard 120mm x 25mm computer fan)

2U leg updated along with the top/bottom solid side panel. No more lefts and rights.

Crypto Donations:

(Original Author)

BTC: 35t6ENDrjz96PUpYjB28sxYfmHgLgpAwoY

(Creality Upload/Amendment)

BTC: bc1qu7mgz29qv9sfljlf5fn4yrd2202uxv3h50qnpg

ETH: 0xF8DFb0afe408aA095a3bfB8e9Fa7e383e03C30AC

(Original Author)

Print Settings

Printer: Ender-3 v2

Rafts: No

Resolution: 0.3 layer height 0.6 line width

Infill: Cubic Subdivision

Filament: PETG

(Uploader)

Printer: K1C

Rafts: No

Resolution: 0.3 layer height 0.6 line width

Infill: Grid

Filament: CC3D PETG Plus