This image works best as color-by-layer wall art or relief, not a full 3D sculpture. The Kraken and Pegasus have strong contrast, flowing shapes, and clear light/dark separation—exactly what 16-color CFS excels at.

You’ll be printing flat on the bed, face up, with color swaps handled automatically by height.

Step 1: Image → Color-Layer Model

Use a color-by-height tool like HueForge or equivalent.

Set the image to high contrast, don’t blur it too much. You want sharp tentacles, wings, and lighting edges.

Target about 3.2 mm total thickness, which gives enough vertical resolution for all 16 colors without making the print heavy.

Use a 0.04 mm layer height, which gives you roughly 80 layers total. That’s plenty for smooth gradients in the water, wings, and glow effects.

Step 2: Filament Color Planning (16 Colors)

Load your CFS from darkest to lightest. This matters a lot for clean transitions.

Suggested order:

Matte black (deep ocean shadows)

Very dark blue-green (Kraken depth)

Dark teal

Forest green

Olive green

Slime green (Kraken glow)

Dark gray

Slate gray

Medium gray

Warm gray

Dark tan

Light tan

Pale gold (Pegasus glow)

Light yellow

Off-white

Pure white (highlights, wings, lightning)

Dark → light always prints cleaner than the other way around.

Step 3: Slicer Setup (Creality K-Series + CFS)

Use PLA for all colors if possible. Mixing PLA types is fine, but avoid mixing PLA and PLA+ in the same print.

Layer height stays at 0.04 mm, with a thicker first layer around 0.2 mm for adhesion.

Walls can stay at two lines. You don’t need top layers because the image is the top.

Bottom layers around six is enough for strength.

Slow the print slightly. Around 40 mm/s overall, slower on outer walls. This improves color registration and detail.

Step 4: Color Change & Purge Tuning

This image has brutal color jumps—dark ocean greens to bright Pegasus whites—so don’t under-purge.

Use a wipe tower. Place it at the back corner so it doesn’t mess with airflow over the print.

Purge volume should be moderate to high. Especially when switching from greens to yellows or whites, increase purge slightly to prevent muddy colors.

Flush into infill is fine. Do not flush into supports (you shouldn’t have any anyway).

Step 5: Bed Adhesion & Orientation

Use a smooth PEI plate if you have one. Textured works, but smooth gives cleaner first-layer color.

Add a brim, about 5 mm. Flat art prints love to curl at the corners without one.

Lay the model flat. Face up. No supports. No tilt.

Step 6: Expected Results

You’ll get:

Strong depth in the Kraken tentacles

Clean glow in the Pegasus wings

Dramatic contrast between sea and sky

A print that looks painted, not plastic

Expect around 8–12 hours of print time and a fair amount of purge waste. That’s normal for a high-contrast 16-color piece like this.

Step 7: Optional Finishing

If you want it to look insane:

Light matte clear coat

Frame it like artwork

Or mount it on a black backing plate for contrast

If you want, next I can:

Reduce purge waste without color bleeding

Re-map this image specifically for your filament brands

Convert it into a raised 3D relief instead of flat art

Or prep it as a lithophane-style glow print

Pegasus vs Kracken

Tyedstick

Pengaturan Cetak(1)

0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill

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